The conditions are changing on a day by day in the high mountain, so please treat the information below with caution. The information that follows is courtesy of the following web site www.chamoniarde.com and is well worth a visit for route info and conditions

Albert Prem and Trient Area
The Aiguille du Tour bergschrund is open. A snow bridge still allows access to the peak. However, it's becoming more fragile by the day. Also reported is that the snow bridges on the route up to the Tête Blanche and Petit Fourche are very delicate. The traverse of the Aiguilles Dorées remains in good condition, as does the Aiguille du Tour Table Ridge and the Purtscheller.

Charpoua Area
Lots of parties have done the traverse of the Drus. For the moment the Charpoua glacier is OK.

Couvercle Area
The Moine (normal route, south ridge and the Contamine,) the Nonne and the Evêque are popular at the moment. The glacier approaches remain OK. Concerning the Arête du Jardin, the bergschrund is very open. Nobody is currently doing the Pointe Isabelle (the upper section looks very icy.) Similar situation  for the Whymper Couloir and the normal route and traverse of the Courtes, (Col des Cristaux is lacking snow).


Aiguille du Midi Area
Grand Capucin :The couloir des Aiguillettes is in bad condition and it is recommended to use the lower pitches of Flagrant Délire to reach the Swiss Route and O Sole Mio.
Access to the Rébuffat and Kohlman on the S face of the Aiguille du Midi is difficult due to an open bergschrund.
Pyramide du Tacul : The approach to the Ottoz is problematical..
Traverse of the Pointes Lachenal : very icy.
Frendo Spur : The spur and the exit are bare ice.
Triangle du Tacul : The routes are not in good condition. The bergschrund at the Chéré Couloir is very open but still passable at the moment. Rochefort Arete: The approach is very "dry", (lacking snow), and there is some bare ice on the route.


Traverse of the Aiguilles de Chamonix  

Midi to the Plan : very "dry". Going to the Plan is OK, but the return is awkward, (The gully between the col du Plan and the abseil is totally without snow and unstable). Aiguille du Plan to the Spencer Couloir : No comment,. Possible to descend the Spencer in 4 abseils then down climb about 100 metres. The bergschrund is getting wider. Beware of stonefall on the Nantillions glacier.

Monzino Area
Lots of activity in this sector including : Brouillard Ridge,(very little snow) – Brouillard Red Pillar (direct approach by the glacier possible without passing via the Eccles Bivouac).– Punta Inominata and Inominata Ridge – Aiguille Croux – Peuterey Intergral – Grande Pilier d’Angle –Fréney Pillar.
To reach the Eccles bivouac: it is still possible by the Brouillard glacier with one pitch for the bergschrund. The approach from the Eccles to the Fréney pillar is bare ice.
The integral traverse of the Dômes de Miage - Bionnassay - Mont Blanc is being done regularly when the freezing conditions allow. The approaches to the Durier hut : From the Col des Domes there is less and less snow. From the Plan Glacier, the glacier is still passable despite the presence of numerous crevasses, the bergshrund currently not posing a problem