Alpine Blog
Updated regularly when I'm in the Alps in Summer - letting you know what's in nick and getting done and what's downright dangerous.
Keep checking back throughout the year for updates on Scottish Winter Climbing and Expeditions too.
June 21, 2011
Well folks here we go again, after a few days of Mr Marti Pellow action, the clouds have finally parted to reveal a rather snowy Chamonix valley. We have fresh snow on both sides of the valley, more so on the Cham Aiguilles side.
Sunday 12th June was a hut walk up to the Albert Premier - from the valley as the bin wasn’t open yet. The afternoon was spent catching up on some rope work with Richie and Dave.
Monday: well it sort of dawned, but definitely not bright and early, bit murky out there, so went for the Mexican stand off. Which would have been a hoot if it had involved some tequila, salt and a scene from Dusk till Dawn……Any road the boys and I hit the road and set off, finally reaching the Trient hut later that day. Oh the Ikea show room hasn’t changed. Love it.
Col Superior du Tour
Tuesday: did dawn bright and early, as you can see by some of the pics, we got a bit of a boogie on across the plateau and we were the second team up to the summit of Aiguille du Tour.
Richie and Dave on Aiguille du Tour
Check out the pic of the merry throng we encountered on the way down:
The plateau was in good conditions very little in the way of crevasse action, and access onto the peak was a dream.
We then trod a merry road back to the valley, in time for tea and cakes at Mrs Miggins pie shop.
Wednesday: Traverse of the Crochues, I love this route and so did Dave and Richie. Only one other team on it, there is snow up to the col and some hard pack snow on the north side.
Col du Crochues
We had crampons and axes and to be honest found them real useful. The guys got out in front with me grooving along……
Traverse of the Crochues
The descent went real easy as the snow line is almost up to the ridge, so down to Lac Blanc in minutes.
Looking to the Grandes Jorasses
Thursday: We took the first bin up to the Midi, the afternoon forecast being for a near pan-galactic gargle blasting end of the universe type of thing, so with that in mind we got on down with some hard core crevasse rescue grooves. And after many a fall into the abyss the boys got the hang of the dark art. We then ran away to the hut, to watch white fluffy stuff falling from the sky.
Mont Blanc du Tacul
There were a few teams on the South face of the Midi rock routes, and also on Point Lachenal, Chere Couloir, Left Edge. The normal route up the Tacul looks very interesting, the bergschrund from last year hasn’t really filled in so you actually walk along it for some distance, through some questionable terrain, I have looked through some bino’s and chatted to a few guides who have done it, hmm move quick and get through it, or avoid for the moment, see what it does……
M B du Tacul bergschrund
Friday: We did the ridge that heads towards the Col Du Midi from the Cozzy Hut, well worth doing, short, bolted, and has a bit of everything in it.
Ridge to Col du Midi from Cosmiques Hut
The boys did a great job of the route, Richie especially as he was wearing a pair of Sportiva Spantiks in readiness for his next trip, which is Denali, and then one or two other peaks. I wish him all the best on all of them. We then had one last session of crevasse rescue, before heading up the sting in the tale snow arête up to the ice cave and finally the Midi.
Dave and Richie on Ridge to Col du Midi from Cosmiques Hut
As a footnote to this, there was a team on the Cosmiques Couloir, it did look in good nick, but in saying that also had loads of rock fall debris at the base of it, so be careful as you do have the Cozzy arête above you as well.
Triangle du Tacul and Chere Couloir
Well there you go, I had a great week with Dave and Richie, and one of the best starts to the seasons I could ask for. There will be more reports from the Cham valley, Arolla and Zermat over the next few months. So you know the score folks, check the forecast, do your research and be safe.
Rob Wills I.F.M.G.A. / U.I.A.G.M. International Mountain and Ski Guide at your service.
Posted by Rob Wills. Posted In : Chamonix 2011 Summer Updates
June 10, 2011
Let’s have a welcome for Billy Cox on bass, Mitch Mitchell on drums and the man with the guitar: “Yeah it has been along time hasn’t it. That does mean peace, not this.”
Well, as the great man (Jimi, if you hadn’t worked it out) suggests it has been a long time, arrived in Cham 2 days ago for yet another fun and frolic-filled summer of action packed adventures. Only today have the clouds parted and we finally have a view from the balcony of the apartment.
The Midi is looking ... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Chamonix 2011 Summer Updates
March 1, 2011
Creag Meagaidh today, Tuesday March 1st.
A team on the Pumpkin, but they backed off after first pitch as debris was falling on them from above and the ice wasn’t in that good conditon. There was a team on Diadem, hollow ice and selective axe placement.
Zac and his team did Diadem, myself and the team did Glass Slipper. Great condition, ice was ok although a bit hollow in places, cornice was ok. Further right looked a bit more interesting though. Staghorn gully first ... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Scotland Conditions 2011
March 1, 2011
Greetings jokers, smokers and midnight tokers – I’ve been out and about the last few days and here’s what I’ve seen and done.
Saturday was in Lochain in the Northern Corries, a few teams in there too on the following: Ventilater, Milky Way, Andromeda, Astroturfer, Central Crack Route, Ewen Buttress, and Savage Slit, all in good condition, but again with this mild patch we are about to have that could change. What was interesting was the gaping crack forming at the top of the great... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Scotland Conditions 2011
February 18, 2011
Greetings one and all, I’m back in Scotland again for a few weeks, here’s what we’ve been up to over the past few days .The weather and avo conditions have sort of played havoc with us this week, but Tim and Chris had the patience to put up with it, thanks guys.
Wednesday 16th Feb Aonach Eagach Ridge Deep snow on most of it, approach was ok, no probs; the route itself went without hitch ,much frivolity amongst the 2 teams that were on it along with us. The viz was…..well not the... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Scotland Conditions 2011
January 7, 2011
Cairngorms 7th Jan 2011.
Greetings one and all, just when you thought it was safe to go back into the mountains, I’m back......
Had a stroll into the Northen Corries today, quite busy up there, had to park in lower of the car parks, then get bus up to Coire Cas car park, mainly skiers I thought. The walk in wasn’t too bad, bit of a head wind slowed things down and had moved quite a bit of snow around, so the path wasn’t that obvious, the wind was about 15/20 mph which made it feel COO... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Scotland Conditions 2011
September 12, 2010
Well folks here it is, the final Cham blog of the season. Doesn’t time fly when you’re up to no good??
It’s been a real mixed week, something for everyone, mainly ducks!!!!! So as you can guess the weather hasn’t really been playing ball, there where quite a few frustrated guides up at the Albert Prem hut on Sunday night ,most had moved on to plan Z at that point, or just sat there rocking backwards and forwards with their head in their hands……
Anyway enough of my mindles... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Chamonix Conditions Summer 2010
August 31, 2010
Week 22nd - 30th August.
Vic on the Midi Plan Traverse
Well folks I’ve donned my wellies and wet suit this week. Marty Pellow springs to mind, you will have to google that one if you don’t know who he is, then it may make sense…………
Any road up me merry prankster’s here it is another soggy action packed, thrill a minute, laugh a second, stunt filled week in the Chamonix valley.
It really has been a bit of a wash out this week so far, Monday 23rd rained most of... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Chamonix Conditions Summer 2010
August 22, 2010
Ok folks here it is, for what its worth. My Oh My, to quote the great Captain Beefheart , what a week. It’s been a constant battle with the weather, and I have to say the weather did sort of win, but only just.
Aiguille Verte and the Dru on Tuesday 17th
Sunday through to Tuesday was almost constant rain in the valley snow high up, well down to 2500 metres. Wednesday perked up a bit, for a while but it all went down hill later on in the afternoon and pretty much rained for the rest of the ... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Chamonix Conditions Summer 2010
August 13, 2010
Cham Blog week 8th August – oooh Friday 13th. Now wasn’t that brave of me to go out on Friday 13th.
Midi Plan traverse
Ok then, rock and rollers, let’s get the party started. This week has been a real mixed bag of weather, its been all over the place. Monday super hot, Tuesday not too bad with 60% sun. Wednesday cloudy, and Thursday all out storm/ rain action. Friday low cloud at 7am but you knew damned well that you would be above it if you got high enough, but the forecast ... Continue reading...
Posted by Rob. Posted In : Chamonix Conditions Summer 2010
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