Well folks here we go again, after a few days of Mr Marti Pellow action, the clouds have finally parted to reveal a rather snowy Chamonix valley. We have fresh snow on both sides of the valley, more so on the Cham Aiguilles side.


Sunday 12th June was a hut walk up to the Albert Premier - from the valley as the bin wasn’t open yet. The afternoon was spent catching up on some rope work with Richie and Dave.

Monday: well it sort of dawned, but definitely not bright and early, bit murky out there, so went for the Mexican stand off. Which would have been a hoot if it had involved some tequila, salt and a scene from Dusk till Dawn……Any road the boys and I hit the road and set off, finally reaching the Trient hut later that day. Oh the Ikea show room hasn’t changed. Love it.

Col Superior du Tour

Tuesday: d
id dawn bright and early, as you can see by some of the pics, we got a bit of a boogie on across the plateau and we were the second team up to the summit of  Aiguille du Tour.

Richie and Dave on Aiguille du Tour

Check out the pic of the merry throng we encountered on the way down:

The plateau was in good conditions very little in the way of crevasse action, and access onto the peak was a dream.

We then trod a merry road back to the valley, in time for tea and cakes at Mrs Miggins pie shop.

Wednesday: Traverse of the Crochues, I love this route and so did Dave and Richie. Only one other team on it, there is snow up to the col and some hard pack snow on the north side.

Col du Crochues

We had crampons and axes and to be honest found them real useful. The guys got out in front with me grooving along……

Traverse of the Crochues

The descent went real easy as the snow line is almost up to the ridge, so down to Lac Blanc in minutes.

Looking to the Grandes Jorasses

Thursday: We took the first bin up to the Midi, the afternoon forecast being for a near pan-galactic gargle blasting end of the universe type of thing, so with that in mind we got on down with some hard core crevasse rescue grooves. And after many a fall into the abyss the boys got the hang of the dark art. We then ran away to the hut, to watch white fluffy stuff falling from the sky.

Mont Blanc du Tacul

There were a few teams on the South face of the Midi rock routes, and also on Point Lachenal, Chere Couloir, Left Edge. The normal route up the Tacul looks very interesting, the bergschrund from last year hasn’t really filled in so you actually walk along it for some distance, through some questionable terrain, I have looked through some bino’s and chatted to a few guides who have done it, hmm  move quick and get through it, or avoid for the moment, see what it does……

M B du Tacul bergschrund

Friday: We did the ridge that heads towards the Col Du Midi from the Cozzy Hut, well worth doing, short, bolted, and has a bit of everything in it.

Ridge to Col du Midi from Cosmiques Hut

The boys did a great job of the route, Richie especially as he was wearing a pair of Sportiva Spantiks in readiness for his next trip, which is Denali, and then one or two other peaks. I wish him all the best on all of them. We then had one last session of crevasse rescue, before heading up the sting in the tale snow arête up to the ice cave and finally the Midi.

Dave and Richie on Ridge to Col du Midi from Cosmiques Hut

As a footnote to this, there was a team on the Cosmiques Couloir, it did look in good nick, but in saying that also had loads of rock fall debris at the base of it, so be careful as you do have the Cozzy arête above you as well.

Triangle du Tacul and Chere Couloir

Well there you go, I had a great week with Dave and Richie, and one of the best starts to the seasons I could ask for. There will be more reports from the Cham valley, Arolla and Zermat over the next few months. So you know the score folks, check the forecast, do your research and be safe.

Rob Wills   I.F.M.G.A. / U.I.A.G.M.  International Mountain and Ski Guide at your service.