Infamy, Infamy, they’ve all got it in for me……………..take a jump to the left and a step to the right, lets do the time warp again.

This week folks I have mainly not been watching Carry On movies or a certain Horror Show, so let’s begin, as I’m almost a week behind. Its been raining for the last 2 days, Thursday 30th August, here in the valley with more to come, falling as snow as low down as 1800 metres, and quite a bit of it, so bear all this in mind when you read the following.

Sunday 19th August - Walked up to Albert Prem hut with Ian and Andy who were on a Cham intro and getting ready for the Blanc type course. Conditions up around the Albert Prem at the time, were VERY dry, some big slots opening up and a few scary snow bridges to cross. The Col Sup du Tour was quite steep at the top, with a fair bit of rock fall evidence and hard black ice onto the rock section at the top.

Monday 20th - Tete Blanche, mmm interesting, was expecting to go down a slot at any time. Had a quick chat to Owain Jones, who had come across from the Trient hut, and he mentioned there had been a few folks going down crevasses over that way the day before. I decided not to go over and booked another night in the Albert Prem, which still shows no sign of renovation.

Tuesday 21st - Aig du Tour in not bad condition, getting over bergschrund was ok, could be interesting later on. The team moved well and we were 2nd team on summit. We then return back down, and moved on with our rope work skills, crevasses rescue etc.

Wednesday 22nd - Trav of the Crochues, as you all know one of my faves. Not too many people on it, and Ian and Andy got to grips with it, and I came off the rope about half way along and let the team run amok. The descent back to the cable car went without incident, not much in the way of wild life this week though.

Thursday 23rd - Up to the Midi, with a less than good forecast - high winds, snow, rain, for the next 24 hrs. But we needed the height for the acclimatisation; we got to grips once more with some rope work then bailed to the hut as the weather came in.

Friday 17th - Now then this was a real dilemma: 80- 100 k winds, midi not running, more crap on the way, some teams heading to Italy to get down, some heading to valley Blanche to get down, some heading to Midi in hopes it may run just for the few people up there. What’s a guide to do………….?????  Scissor, Paper, Stone, well not quite, I went for the Midi option. Ian and Andy thought it was the way to go as well, so off we and a few others went, with fingers and toes well and truly crossed. The team did well going up the snow arête, and we had just arrived inside, when the announcer said 2 minutes to the next and possibly last departure to Chamonix. So, still roped up but without crampons, we ran for the bin to the valley - and made it. The ride down didn’t seem that bad, but we did get hit with a few big gusts. We then spent rest of afternoon finishing the rope work down at the Gaillands.


The past few days prior to the weather change were spent rock climbing with the delightful and delovely Jo. We climbed at Contamines for a day, visited Medonet, bit wet, climbed at Servoz and blitzed Voi Caline.

So, as you can imagine with all this snow and rain over the last few days, not a lot has been done. It’s now Friday evening and I just got a fleeting glimpse of the lower half of the Aig du Midi, the Plan mainly and its was just like winter. It’s going to look pretty damned impressive when the clouds finally clear, possibly on Sunday 2nd September.

Be super careful out there with all this fresh snow about and do check the forecast.Will be back with ya at the end of next week.