alpine-blog

Salamwalaykoom - Welcome to Morocco

Tue, 20 Mar 2012 01:09:43 +0100

Salamwalaykoom, Welcome to Morocco madness and the Toubkal two step trot.

The team all flew into Marrakech from Manchester on Saturday 25^th feb, 3 and half hrs later there we were there, and there I was, 33 years after hitching down to Marrakech to the sound of Crosby, Stills, and Nash ringing in my ears. Things HAD changed…….. We got in quite late so got straight into the Hotel Le Grand Imilchil, which is about 20 mins from the airport, and about 20 mins from the main drag, so if your into Kfc, Pizza Hut and the Golden Arches then your in luck and about 35 mins from the Souks etc.

Sunday 26^th: Got re-packed, had breakfast, gathered the team together and met our local guide, Mohammed, and our driver. We had a 2 hour drive to Morocco’s main ski area/resort at Qukaimeden at 2600 metres, to start the first part of our acclimatisation trek to Toubkal. The place was very busy, and to be honest the skiing looked good, with some REAL potential for off piste action and short day tours, but you’d have to get yourself up, as there are only a hand full of lifts.

We then headed of into the wild blue yonder heading for a Tizi, which is not a temperamental child like fit; it’s a pass, or col. The one in particular was called Tizzi n’ou Addi, I’ve seen it spelt slightly differently; it’s at around 2960 mts and was partially snow covered. The view down the south side was stunning, I’d been listening to The Green album on and off during the walk up, so was in that sort of mood. The trail on the other side wound its way down and around the hillside to our over night stop at a village called TACHEDIRT, which is apparently the highest in Morocco ????? at 2300mts. The surrounding hills, well… just get out there and have look for yourself, I sat on the patio with mint tea and a set of bino’s for hours spotting routes all over the place, ridges, buttresses, tight gully lines, and as for ski ascent and descents, just as many, there were 4 Swiss folks ski touring, staying at the same place and were having a whoooooop of a time. Much mint tea was drunk and tagines eaten that evening.

Monday 27^th: We headed down the Imenene valley and up to another Tizi called, Tizi Tamatert, then headed down the wooded hillside, to pick up the trail above Imlil, which is the main jump off point for most folks doing Toubkal. We were heading for Aremd where we stayed the night and Jimbo had a slight toilet incident, which resulted in a major digging project by the locals.

Tuesday 28^th: The team now head up the valley to the Toubkal Refuge, easy walking with some grand views, and again a multitude of both climbing and ski potential, with some good looking ice falls further up the valley on left hand side as you’re walking up. We arrived at the refuge late afternoon, got ourselves sorted then went out for an hour or two to work on some axe and crampons skills, whilst watching the ski touring doing some great turns in almost perfect snow……..

The hut is a cold place. It does have a fire and if you’re lucky enough to get close to it, its super warm, but you do have to run the gauntlet of the guardian and strategically place yourself right in front of it before the Euro’s get in there first. Spotted some good ice falls, steep, just above the hut, would have provided a good bit of sport, if you had all the gear with you.

Wednesday 29^th: Earlyish start with the idea to get one of the Twin sister peaks, Quanoukrim, in the bag that day.

We headed up towards the Tizi n Quagane, at 3700 mts, the snow was a real pain in the bottom area, deep and bottomless in places. Snow shoes next time, or ski’s. What I didn’t want to do was wear the team out the day before the main event. So with this in mind we had a bit of a conflab, convo type of thing, Mark said he’d like to try and go on for the summit, and the rest of the team would descend. Mark and Mohammed then carried on and I and the rest of the team plunged back into the snow again for our descent. Now as we are on the subject of bottomless snow, mine was going that way too, and it was as unpleasant as the snow we were trying to walk through. As we arrived back at the hut, the world fell out of mine………….

Thursday 1^st March: SUMMIT day. I had spent a shocking afternoon the day before and night, camped out on the loo, so was really in no fit state to go up the mountain; Mohammed luckily was chomping at the bit, so off the team went. I resumed my little camping trip to the toilets. The team arrived back later that day in good time having topped out in cold, clear windy conditions, but topped out all the same, well done one and all………

Several gallons of tea later, everything was re- packed and we head down the valley back to Aremd, where I was hoping they had finished the digging and fixing of the loos ……..

Friday 2^nd March: Final pack and a short walk down the road to Imlil to get picked up for the drive back to Marrakech, which took about and hour and half and some pretty tight clenching on my part. The boys were on a mission to find food and beer once they got back in to town, so let them get on with it, and by all accounts they had a great evening.

Saturday 3^rd March: Basically a day spent around town, sorting things out, getting packed, ready for our flight at 8pm.

So folks all I can say is, go have a look for yourselves, there is plenty of info out there on the High Atlas Mountains with many companies running trips out there, I was working for ADVENURE PEAKS on this week, and a vast amount of all sorts of things to be doing, from off piste skiing, ski touring, peak bagging, also climbing routes, and new routes to be had.

Here’s the team, and good company for the week, thank you all.

Michael Taylor

Paul Round

Marc”Tiga” Tyler

James Sheard

Russell Arrandale

Mohammed our local guide

I used a copy of Des Clark’s new book, Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas and found it very useful, I am also lucky to have a copy of Le Massif du Toubkal, ( 1942 ) in French and would have to say still the most complete guide there is for the region. There is also a Spanish topo type guide book as well, which might be quite handy to have.

Guess who's back in town

Sat, 17 Mar 2012 10:34:49 +0100

Guess who’s back in town. Yeah that’s right……..So what have I been up to in the last few weeks, months.

Well the last month or so has been spent in Scotland, ducking and diving with the weather on the West coast, working for Adventure Peaks. The first couple of courses were Denali skills for Angus, Steve and Paul who are heading out there in a few months time. Having lived in Talkeetna for 18 months a while ago, I guess I have a bit of a feel for the place. The other courses have been Snow and Ice improvers, with Matt from Belfast and Mike, hope the ankle gets well soon Mike.

We were bouncing around most of Glen Coe, The Ben, Aonach Mor, Ice factor all the usual place, and on the whole found conditions to be good to great, occasionally a bit wet and drippy, but still able to get stuff done.

Not much in the way of photos I’m afraid as camera is playing up, and nearly ended up being thrown off Ledge Route.

I’m off to Morocco on 25^th Feb for 7 days, Jebel Toubkal with 5 people, also with an eye to be running more climbing orientated courses out there for Adventure Peaks next winter. It’s been a while since I was last there, hitched down to Marrakech as a semi innocent (Yeah Right !!!!!) 17 year old, so it will be good to get back and suss the place out.

Booking for the Alps this summer are slowly rolling in, will be interesting to see how the Olympics affect them.

So Folks that’s about it, I still reckon we have plenty of winter action left for us all to play on, up North. If you’re heading that way or wherever stay safe and have fun.

Check back in a week or so’s time for Moroccan Madness blog and pics.

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Mont Blanc ALERT - Gouter route Closed

Thu, 25 Aug 2011 06:32:20 +0100

Just to let you know there has been a large scale rockfall below the Gouter Hut on Wednesday and as a result the 'Gouter' Route to Mont Blanc is closed for the near future.

Take care and stay safe.

Rob

August round-up

Sat, 17 Mar 2012 10:35:24 +0100

Leaves are falling all around, time I was on my way.

It's been a strange old few weeks, and I’m behind on my ramblings, so let’s not ramble on too much…….

Dix Hut, Arolla

The weather has been very up and down over the last few weeks, but saying that routes have been getting done. Here’s a quick taster.

12^th August - Brenva Spur, reported to be in good condition and no probs with the upper seracs. Be careful though now with all this heat and no real re-freezing at night.

13^th August - Kufner Arête, also in good condition, but again be aware the lack of overnight re-freeze.

13^th August - Frendo Spur, dry rock, good ice higher up, with good anchors.

18^th August - Arête du Jardin/ Aig Argentiere, superb route good climbing on great rock, possible to bivi just after Point Yatagan, descend Milieu Glacier

The weather is due to get hotter this week; scorching heat is how it’s described in the forecast, freezing level around 4000/4500 metres and -10 5700/5900 metres. So plan accordingly.

I was up around the Albert Prem and Trient hut early in the week, glaciers looking dry and dirty, but still need to rope up, as there are a few slots starting to open up and you have to cross some of them getting from the Prem hut to Aig Du Tour.

Le Tour Glacier

I have a bunch of mates arriving soon, so we are off to do some valley cragging for a few days. Will keep you posted as to our success and failures on our travels.

Keep and eye on that forecast as it getting hotter and things will start to fall down on ya head if you’re not careful.

Well done to Greg and Paul, for sticking with it in Arolla, hope all’s going well with the diving

Greg and Paul on the big push for La Luette

Start of the Pigne Traverse from the Dix Hut

So would just like to say well done to Chris Redfern for getting up the Blanc on Thursday, in the heat……..

And a big thanks to all of you who graced me with your company this summer, it’s been a blast, hope to catch up at some point. I have a few trips in the pipeline so stay posted and the usual Scottish trip over the winter, then back to the Alps in the spring for some off piste skiing/ski touring and ice climbing.

Thank you one and all……….

Rob.

Rob Wills I.F.M.G.A. / U.I.A.G.M. International Mountain and Ski Guide at your service.

Whether 'tis nobler...

Fri, 29 Jul 2011 09:06:22 +0100

To be or not to be that is the question. Ah the Bard, he made a guest appearance this week at the Gaillands in Chamonix.

Gareth prepares himself for the week ahead

So folks, once more unto the breach. The weather yet again has been the deciding factor this week, with snow levels being down to between 1900 and 2500 metres.

Hotel Suisse, Col de Balme

Sunday: Tony, Gareth and I headed up to the Albert Prem hut, not much in the way of viz and snow on the path from the get go, loads of people heading the same way, not surprising given the forecast. The afternoon was spent running through a few skills.

The Chardonnet from above Albert Premier hut - very snowy!

Monday: We headed out into the wild blue and very white yonder along with the masses, teams where heading up toward the Fentre du Pissoir, also the Table du Roc ridge, which was very snowy and could have taken a while to do??? The colouir looked like it may just go as well, but had looked very dry a few weeks previous.

Very snowy Glacier du Tour with equally snowy Chardonnet behind

Due to time constraints and the weather, the team decided to head straight to the Trient hut. Good track across, many teams on the Aig Tour and Tete Blanche, Petit Fourche. The North face of the Tete Blanche looked good, no tracks though.

Trient plateau at dawn

Tuesday: Up and at em early, before the weather took turn for worst. Surely not I hear you say, don’t call me shirley is the reply. We tore across the Trient Plateau in good time, spotted a few marmots below the Albert Prem hut, then we headed for the valley in time for tea and cakes.

View of Mont Buet

Wednesday: Alas poor Yoric, I knew him well…….well we had the Bard with us today down at the Gaillands, all we needed was a skull and Gareth and his bard like tights would have made it into the land of thespianism……they probably had better weather there as well. We had a blast around down at Servoz, before it got busy then bailed back to Cham, Tony and Gareth went for a curry that Gareth can’t remember having !!!!

Tony on Passy via ferrata

Thursday: Via Ferrata at Passy, very damp and wet in places, only three or four teams on it. The cloud kept drifting in and out, so not much good for photos, but the place felt quite eerie. Tony and I did the route whilst the Bard composed a new play from the comfort of the back seat of the car.

Routes that have been done over last few days:

22^nd July: Traverse of the Entreves, be careful of the crevasses on the approach as there are quite a few of them.

25^th July: Aig de Sialouze, Ecrin - good dry condition, no probs

26^th July: Traverse of the Petit Grand Paradis - Good snow arête, rock and mixed, crampons all the way.

Still very snowy here in Cham, getting hotter at the weekend, up to 70% sun then looking stormy again mid week next week, so move around with caution. I’m in Arolla all next week hoping to find some good weather for once.

Take it easy out there.

Dude, where are my skis?

Fri, 29 Jul 2011 08:13:41 +0100

I would be a liar if I said it was Beau temps all week…………

Dix Hut - wednesday 20th July

Well folks, they were all here this week, Gene Kelly, Marti and his Pellow, the dude with the beard, and the big wooden boat full of animals, and even the Quo, who are incidentally playing the greatest biker fest ever in August, Bulldog Bash 25th Anniversary.

So onwards

Sunday did not in any way shape or form dawn bright; it did however dawn very, very wet. Jenna, Mark, Doug, and I donned our waterproofs, snorkel and goggles, and headed for the Dix hut. After a wrestle with the ladders at the Pass de Chevre and a lost pair of sun glasses, we dripped our way into the hut, to smiles and the more than usual welcome from the team there. The boiler room was turned into a sauna as other groups arrived in a similar state.

Monday:

Dix hut - Monday

With many a plan afoot we headed of up to bag la Luette, which we did in good time, very dry up there, a few small crevasses to cross, summit ridge at that point was clear of snow, that was about to change……

Lower rock ridge, Mont Blanc de Cheillon with Mark, Jenna and Doug

Afternoon was spent doing rope work and getting to grips with Mark’s “possessed” prussik loops, mind of their own….

Tuesday:

Dix Hut - Tuesday

We set off with a plan of sorts, but with the oncoming storm it was going to be cut short. The team headed up to the Col du Cheillon with a few debates along the way, crampons or not to crampons…..oh the dilemma of it all.

We did get a good way up the rock ridge before it just got too much – snow and high winds. The team swung leads of the ridge and on the way down back to the col, good effort in challenging conditions. Crampons on and then we ran away back to the hut, and more tea and cakes……

Wednesday:

Looking back to Dix hut - Wednesday

Now then, now then guys and gals if we’d had our skis we would have used em, not half ………..Good all over snow cover, and some sun made the place a winter wonderland. Several teams did a runner for the valley; the rest stayed and hung on in there. We spent a mammoth day of crevasse rescue; Mark now had to contend with both a possessed prussik and gloves, not a good combo, but good on him, he stuck with it. Having now got the hang of the dark art, and with Mark’s prussiks and gloves temporarily under control we headed back to the hut. Well after many a snow bridge, multiple crevasses and much levitation the team finally got to safety.

Thursday: To combat the hut fever, we did a runner to the valley; we thought we’d made it down in the dry until the heavens opened. Snow, mid July at 2300 metres.

It could be Scotland!

We ducked and dived, Mark once more wrestled with the still possessed items, and Doug got really good at tying an Italian hitch. Jenna just got on with it.. no worries…

Friday:

Doug, Jenna and Mark on the via ferrata at Evolene

Now then guys and gals, Friday did dawn bright and sunny, we headed for the Via Ferrata at Evolene. Where after much pulling, tugging, moaning and groaning, we hit the summit cargo net and the top. It’s a great trip, just above the Co Op, with access just up the road opposite the Parapente landing field. Last bit of rope work, and a Q and A sesh, and as quick as a blink of an eye the week was over. A pain in the butt week weather wise, but made all the much better by some great company, a few items in need of exorcism and a great hut. Thanks to all.

Look mum - no hands!

I’m in Cham all next week, so it will be interesting to see how all this new snow has affected things.

The Brenva Spur was done on the 16^th, sounded good and the upper seracs as stable as they can be – that will be all changed now though.

All the usual valley and mid mountain rock routes have been done, but since this weather patern kicked in not much has been reported done so sorry to say not much info on latest routes. Looking out from balcony there is snow down to the Plan de l’Aiguille, but only just and it’s going as I type. And there are even forecasts for snow down to Arolla on Sunday!!!!!

Singing nuns climb every mountain

Sat, 16 Jul 2011 17:29:57 +0100

Well now they call me the breeze, I keep rollin down the road

This week has been far from a breeze folks, in fact it’s been hotter than a rattlesnake’s tail in a forest fire.

Sunday: Found Andy, Gwen, Mike, Chris, Robin Beadle and myself along with the masses heading for the Albert Prem hut. Still no sign of the new build, apparently it’s supposed to start next year now…….We wait with bated breath.

Glacier below Aiguille du Tour, Albert Prem side

We had a stroll around the glacier going over rope work and crevasse rescue, before retiring back to the hut, and for once a very good evening meal, well for the veggies anyway !

Fenetre de Pissoir

Monday: We headed up to the Fenetre du Pissoir, it’s been years since I been up that way, it was just about there, with soft snow to start and some hardish ice in the middle. There is a bit of a crevasse zone to cross to get to it, and a small bergshrund, which can be outflanked on the left.

Andy with the Chardonnet in view

We then strolled around to Aig La Tour, which by then only had a couple of teams on it, which was great. Mike, Chris and I got to the summit in good time, and got some great summit pics. We then set off down to the valley and back to the hotel.

Tete Blanche

Tuesday: A very good but busy traverse of the Crochues, quite a bottle neck on the short climb at the start. Mike led most of the way along it, with me as camera man. Snow on the descent, we used an axe and a ski pole, some people not using either.

Mike and Chris on the Traverse of the Crochues

Wednesday: The heavens opened, out came Gene Kelly, Marti Pellow, et al. Lots of snow high up, they mentioned up to 10 – 20 cm of the white stuff, I have heard that it was more from folks who where trying the Blanc on Friday. We got down to some crevasse rescue action in the comfort and warmth of the games rooms in the Hotel Richemond.

Thursday: Drive round to Saas Grund, gentle walk up to the Almageller Hut, with some swinging rope bridge action along the way, and some singing nuns ???? who were possibly on the run…… all a bit strange .

En route to Almegeller Hut

Friday: Climbed the Weissmies from the hut - the route up is fab. If you haven’t done it, then get round there and do it.

South south east ridge of Weissmies

Andy on the upper snow ridge of Weissmies

The descent is a bit twitchy through the seracs, move quickly and carefully. It’s not too bad but you don’t want to linger and it’s only going to get worse.

Descending Weissmies

So there you go, another weeks bites the dust. The Table du Roc couloir isn’t there anymore, too dry up there, the Blanc was done on Friday from the Cozzy hut.

The forecast for next week is a real mixed bag, so keep an eye on it, and plan accordingly. Haven’t a chance to find out anymore info on what going on, real quick turn around this weekend as I’m in Arolla all next week and driving across tonight, Saturday.

As per folks, do your home work and be safe.

ROB

Zermatt to Chamonix

Sat, 09 Jul 2011 10:44:06 +0100

The Matterhorn at sunset from Theodule Hut

Well I stand up next to a mountain and chop it down with the edge of my hand, pick up all the pieces……….This week folks, felt just a bit like that. So what have we been up to?

Sunday morning we met the folks in sunny down town Zermatt, organised kit, weather forecast, hmm not so good, and then ourselves. Headed up to the Thoedule Hut, dodging the odd piste basher on the way. We got ourselves settled in, and then went down to the glacier for some crevasse rescue and rope work action.

Leaving Theodule Hut - the Matterhorn behind us

Monday dawned, as it always does, unfortunately during the previous evening one of the team was very ill, giving much cause for concern, so he headed back to Klien Matterhorn with Smiler, whilst I did the Breithorn with Sue, Andy and Steve.

Breithorn Summit

Very busy, as you can imagine, and in very good condition and I have to say reports were that the rest of the chain, Caster, Pollux, etc all sounded in the same condition.

Castor, Pollux and Monte Rosa from Breithorn

Tuesday found us back in the valley, re-grouping and re-organising. With a crap forecast mid week, and the need to stay at lower elevations for a few days, we all decided to head to Cham, better forecast. We did the Via Corda Alpina in the afternoon with Sue and Jason.

Wednesday: a very busy Traverse of the Crochues, with a sprinkling of rain on the descent, just used an axe for the descent, the col up to the route is now clear of snow.

Thursday: Rock day, Servoz and the Gaillands.

Andy and Sue ready to face the Tacul - Col du Midi

Friday we tried Mont Blanc du Tacul. Jason and Sue got to the top, one of only 2 teams to get up there, very windy, cold and some snow fall, the front team were breaking trail, good effort.

Mont Blanc du Tacul

Many teams on Point Lach, 2 teams on the Chere, the usual crowds on the Cozzy arête and a couple of teams on the South Face rock routes.

Triangle du Tacul - Chere Couloir

Also done in the past few days, but bear in mind we have had snow and rain in last few days so things may have changed a bit:
2^nd July: Red Pillar Brouillard, in very good condition at the time.
3^rd July: Normal route on the Droites, both the ascent and descent in good condition at the time.
3^rd July: Traverse of Rochefort Arête integral, good track and good conditions, with the descent down the other side in good nick too, at the time.
4^th July: American Direct on the Dru. Good condition, new bolts on the traverse if you go that way, and good abs off the South face.

I’m in Cham this week then back in Switzerland, Arolla the week after so check back for updates and info.

Take it easy out there

Mooching round the Midi

Sat, 02 Jul 2011 06:58:16 +0100

Get your motor running, head out on the highway... yet another week has flown by and we are already one day into July. I’ve missed Glasto, no great loss, but still have the Bulldog bash, 25^th Anniversary to look forward to.

Anyroad up enough waffle let’s get to business.

Monday: had a stroll round to the Conscrits Hut.

Conscrits Hut with Tre la Tete

It’s a great little walk there are a few chains etc to help with the more exposed sections - if you’re heading that way don’t be tempted by the crappy looking gully line way right of the ladders; there were people going up and coming down it, to get off the glacier, it looked shocking. Get your crampons on and just walk up the straightforward ice slope at the snout of the glacier below Mont Tondu. It all looked quite snowy up there, teams on Mount Tondu, but think in a few weeks time its going to look less snowy.

Mont Tondu

The next few days, well sorry folks didn’t do much went for runs and bouldering in woods near to Argentiere, and also Col du Montets.

Friday however is a different kettle of poached eggs on toast….

Mont Blanc du Tacul from Midi

I joined the merry throngs and went up to have a mini the moocher around the Midi. It was RAMMED up there; here is a list of what was getting done:

Contamine/Mazeud Route on the Triangle - at least 4 teams on it.

Left Edge on the Triangle - at least 4 teams on that.

Chere - only 2 teams on that, and it looks fab.

Millions on the Tacul also Point Lachenal, Cosmiques Arete and South Face rock routes.

Conditions under foot early on were stunning with lovely crisp snow and conditions on the hill looked good too.

Thumbs up for the Tacul

The Schrund on the Tacul has mellowed out a bit, from what it was like early on in season, short steepish section just before it, then a wee little climbish type of thing to get over it, may need a ladder like last year later on in season, there is still the threat from the seracs on the left as you head up, BE AWARE !!!!!

Teams also heading down to do rock routes on Point Lachenal.

Other stuff that’s got done this week:

North face of Grand Paradiso, is supposed to be in great condition with bucket steps all the way, 42 people were counted on it on Monday.

Dent du Geant was climbed early on in the week by Al Powel and Rich Cross of Alpine Guides.

Teams also coming down from the Blanc - sounded very windy up there and COLD with some teams turning back due to the temperature.

Midi plan has got a good track on it, but do check on the descent to Requin hut as it sounds quite dangerous, collapsing snow bridges etc, check with guides office or call the Requin hut direct.

The Bionassy was done early in the week and sounded like that too was in great condition .

Conditions out there are generally good, but always try and find out more if you can, the info is all out there, you only have to look or ask.

Next week I’m in Zermatt doing a 4000er week with Smiler, so no doubt will have many a tale to tell when I get back. Good luck to Rich Cross who’s doing a weekend Frendo Spur extravaganza, and he’s only just got down from the Blanc today, Friday.

Take it easy out there

Welcome back to the show that never ends

Sun, 26 Jun 2011 22:05:33 +0100

Welcome back my friend to the show that never ends, step inside, step inside, step inside.

So this was supposed to be a Mont Blanc 3 day for me and the team, but ended up more like Gene Kelly or Ernie Wise.

The forecast was a shocker for the middle of the week, and as per there were a lot of pained faced guides wandering the streets of Cham looking for inspiration, divine or otherwise..

So on Wednesday we drove down the valley and did the Via ferrata above Passy, it was a lot dryer down there and we even had a few sunny spells, short lived as they were. It did go wild later, I stood on my balcony and watched this huge tidal wave like cloud just come thundering up the valley, like a scene from Dante’s inferno.

Thursday: Myself Robin Beadle and the boys, went and climbed / scrambled up a route called the Via Corda Alpina, just outside La Praz, its in the latest edition of the Crag Climbs in Chamonix Book, its bolted, not a lot though, sort of moving together type terrain, if dry, with occasional pitch at around 3 or 4c takes about 3 hrs to do with an easy walk back to the valley and if you’re lucky the Buvet will be open at the end of the route. But with water streaming down it and the heavens opening up, in big boots it’s a different kettle of haddock. The guys did really, really well given the conditions, and we did get a fleeting glimpse of a snow plastered Dru and Nant Blanc face.

Friday: Old favourite came to the rescue once more, hoooorrah. Traverse of the Crochues, very cloudy, but dry, quite busy as well, with some very interesting rope work/ coils/ and dropping ski pole action going…..we ducked and dived and managed to get past all the fun and frolics. We took cramp’s and axes but didn’t use them, just a wee bit of snow up to the col, but you can miss it on the rock to the right.

So all in all bit of a mixed bag weather wise, it’s a scorcher of a week coming up, which will help consolidate the snow more, we have had some big avalanches, one huge one on the left side of the Triangle Du Tacul last early in week, I was caught in the air blast from it on Point Lachenal….

From what I could see today Saturday, there are tracks going up the Blanc from the Gouter Hut, and it looked like there maybe a track on The Tacul, but can’t be sure, I would suggest there will be soon if there aint.

Any road up I need to go and do a food shop, and then go bouldering up at the Col du Montets.

Going to be up and around the Conscrits hut at some point this week so will get back to you later in the week.

Take it easy out there.

P.S. Sorry no pic’s, camera got wet and refused to work.