Conditions in the Chamonix valley take a turn for the worse

July 18, 2015
Photo taken today on the Vallee Blanche
 

Un-conditional report...

July 18, 2015

The conditions are changing on a day by day in the high mountain, so please treat the information below with caution. The information that follows is courtesy of the following web site www.chamoniarde.com and is well worth a visit for route info and conditions

Albert Prem and Trient Area
The Aiguille du Tour bergschrund is open. A snow bridge still allows access to the peak. However, it's becoming more fragile by the day. Also reported is that the snow bridges on the route up to the Tête Bl...


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Routes getting done now in the Chamonix Valley

July 15, 2015
Just a quick update of what's been done over the past few days. It’s been very hot here in the valley over the past week or so. Bear this in mind when planning your routes, especially if they are mixed or have glacier approaches. The Aigiulles are looking very dry and bare, great for the rock routes.


You can see the track up the Blanc from the Gouter hut as you drive back up the valley, so it’s getting done LOADS..........

10/7/15   Walker Spur, Grand Jorasses, reported to be in good condi...

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The Alps are melting!

July 6, 2015
Greetings and Salutations from a very HOT HOT HOT Chamonix valley. Conditions aren't that good at the moment for snowy type stuff as it's not refreezing overnight.



The forecast is stating that the freezing level over Monday night into Tuesday will be at around 4700m to 4800m and -10C at 6100m to 6300m.

We have some storm action over night on Tuesday, with snow/rain limit around 4100 metres, I do hope it will clear the air a bit. It’s then due to warm up again towards the end of the week. I wo...

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Moroccan Magic

March 9, 2015
Greetings and Salutations - Just back from a two week trip to Morocco's high Atlas.

Nelter Refuge

If you’re into your into your ski mountaineering then book your flight out to Marrakech NOW!!!!!. The snow is stunning, snow line is about 300 metres above Sidi Chammharouch and there's lots of it. Routes down from peaks that haven’t been skied for a few years are getting done. I met a fellow Austrian guide who had been on a 10 days tour, finishing at the Netler refuge.

Anyroad enough waxing ...

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Snow and Ice in Morocco

January 19, 2015
Well folks it has been a long time.........hasn’t it.



Hope you’ve all had a good and safe start to the new year,long may it continue. This is just a quick update of my movements during February and March, 2015.

I have 3 weeks mountaineering and climbing in Morocco during Feb and March, and its looking good. They have had lots of snow, far more than the Alps at one point; the skiing will be fantastic, the ice is forming and some of the big mixed routes are starting to get their act togeth...


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Winter is coming

December 20, 2013

Seasonal greetings and salutations, now if your wondering what’s been keeping occupied over the last few months cast your eyes on the trio of Strat-tastic beauties, one from each decade, which decades ??? I’ll let you work that one out, answers on a post card.


Well we’ve had an interesting start to the winter season, with some quite good short lived conditions in Scotland, now back to milder weather.

The Alps have had early season snow falls, and friend have been out and about skii...


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And now for something completely different......

June 28, 2013

Greeting and salutations.

As you’re about to find out, I’m not where I usually am at this time of year. I am in fact in Buxton trundling big rocks off a big cliff down Ashwood Dale, main A6 out of Buxton. It’s an ongoing rope access job, and have also been working in a huuuuuge hanger destined for the dream liner, down at Heathrow.

I have decided to take a summer away from the Alps as it would have been my 25th year in a row, and wanted to get some play time for myself. Working in...


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Blue Skies and Blisters

March 8, 2013

Blue Skies and Blisters - a tale of one man and woman’s adventures in Scotland.

 Scotland had indeed been bathing in glorious weather and we were keen to get into the bath with it and have a good old splash around.

 

Monday 25th Feb – I, G man and Nicola head into Glen Coe and up to Lochain, it was STUNNING! It’s been a while since I’ve seen like this, there were a few teams all mainly doing Twisting Gully and S.C. Gully; we headed for N.C. Gully, which at the time was in great con...


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Morocco Ice Climbing

February 24, 2013

Restraunte at the end of the universe, and F Z at The Hamersmith Odeon 1975.

 

Oh and Morocco mountaineering  Jan /Feb 2013.


So folks here once more are the scores on the doors, and still no sign of the Lizard king.

I’ve just spent the last 2 weeks in Morocco, based at the Toubkal Refuge, working for Ambleside based company Adventure Peaks. The team for the first week were Frances, Freddy, and Julian Zappa. We all met at the Hotel Imillichil, which is located in the Hivernage area of ...


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Alpine Blog

Facebook page is updated regularly when I'm in the Alps in Summer - letting you know what's in nick and getting done and what's downright dangerous.

Keep checking back throughout the year for updates on Scottish Winter Climbing and Expeditions too.